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Fizyk(a) na fali

Wizja plaż dla surferów, którą możemy wywieść z serialu z Davidem Hasselhoffem, to wielkie fale i smukłe dziewczęta. Ile w tym prawdy? Jeśli chodzi o średni obwód talii obywateli USA to jest to raczej sporo więcej niż 60cm. A fale? Cóż, na te naprawdę duże zwykle trzeba czekać co najmniej tyle co, na pojawienie się smukłej dziewczyny. Dlaczego? Bo reszta dziewczyn je za dużo frytek, to jasne. A fale? Dlaczego i jak długo surferzy czekają na tę odpowiednio dużą?

 

 

Aby to sprawdzić portal fiztaszki.pl wysłał swoich zwiadowców na najbardziej surfingowe, zachodnie wybrzeże kontynentu amerykańskiego (o tym dlaczego nie wschodnie, a właśnie zachodnie jest lepsze – w kolejnym odcinku).  I co? I, proszę Państwa, plaża! Mianowicie wygląda na to, że na przeważającą część sportu zwanero surfingiem nie składa się prężenie ogolonego torsu, ujeżdżając rozwścieczoną falę, ale potulne oczekiwanie wielkiej wody. Fale mają to do siebie, że zwykle są mniejsze niż większe, i surferzy moczą się w wodzie, czekając na okazję.

 

Dlaczego? Powstawanie fal oceanicznych to proces złożony: jego zgrubny opis wystarczy nam jeszcze na wiele fiztaszków. Skupmy się więc raczej już konkretnie na efekcie i pytaniu: dlaczego i jak długo surferzy czekają na falę?

 

 

Z tych wszystkich zawiłych procesów, które wpływają na tworzenie się fal (i które na pewno niedługo opiszemy!), wynika, że rozkład prawdopodobieństwa wysokości fal można opisać rozkładem Rayleigha o parametrze s (oznaczenia jak w linku) równym połowie parametru zwanego wysokością fali znaczej. Brzmi skomplikowanie, ale falę znaczną mieszy się po prostu w doświadczalnych badaniach na oceanie, a rozkład Rayleigha zapisuje się całkiem zwartym wzorem.

 

Stosując te wiadomości można policzyć, że nasi surferzu muszą zazwyczaj trochę się naczekać. Przyjmując, że danego dnia średnia wysokość fali wynosi dajmy na to jeden metr, wychodzi że mniej niż co dwudziesta fala będzie miała solidną wysokość co najmniej dwóch metrów, a ponad trzymetrowej możemy oczekiwać nieco rzadziej niż raz na tysiąc. Ech, nie takie słodkie życie surfera! Na szczęście na środkowoamerykańskich plażach woda jest znacznie cieplejsza niż w Rewalu czy Juracie, więc czekanie na fale nie powinno skutkować reumatyzmem.

 

  • Obrazek użytkownika w.ganczarek
    O autorze:

    Wojtek Ganczarek

    Redaktor fiztaszków teoretycznych i kwantowych
    Fiztaszkowiec teoretyczny. Lubi się splątać: kwantowo lub w sieci złożonej. Jest specjalistą ds. gatunku videofiztaszkus. Jeśli akurat nie pisze fiztaszka, to pisze o podróżach: fizyk-w-podrozy.blogspot.com .

Komentarze

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I teraz nie wiem, czy powodem dla którego nad naszym morzem nie ma surferów jest tylko jego reumatyczna temperatura? ;-) Czekam na kolejny odcinek, może będzie tam wyjaśnienie?

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W skrócie: mamy małe i płytkie morze. Ale następny odcinek z dokładniejszym wyjaśnieniem będzie. Tak myślę ; )

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